Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Canary Islands...
A few months ago and over a facebook chat my Italian cousin and I proposed a plan to meet somewhere in Europe to catch up since it had been 6 years since we had seen each other last. Through his "connections" a friend of his located in the Canary Islands invited us to go stay with him for a while, so we booked the tickets and waited.
Getting a flight after a few days together in Barcelona we arrived on the island of Gran Canaria and were greeted by his very sweet parents, whom we would later see just how hospitable and gracious hosts they were too us.
From the air I was a little suprised just how big this "island" was - I was thinking it was like my fathers island Zakynthos... you can drive around it in a day. Somehow I think you would need to drive really fast to do this on Gran Canaria. One thing that is really striking about this island is the vast differences in landscape all within a 10 minute drive. From desert sand dunes, to riviera looking beach villages, amazing gran canyon style mountains and barcelona street facades. I like what I saw!
So because my cousins friend was away with work for a couple more days we were luckily given their family beach bungalow in an area called Masopalamas which is about a 10 min walk to the beach and has a brilliant water reserve for animals by the beach, sand dunes like that of the Sahara and a strip of upmarket resorts for the abundance of German and English tourists.
It was nice after so long to actually be able to cook for myself and clean-up (yes I know what person on holiday would want this) but when you are on a long term holiday you crave weird things that remind you of routine and stability - one of which I loathe in reality.
The ocean in this area was a little rocky at low tide, but it was amazing how much sand the waves would dump over the rocks at high tide, it became a different beach.
My cousin had been driving me mad on the plane talking about his friends kite and finally I got to watch whilst in hysterics as he cursed the kite he was having trouble keeping afloat amongst the sanddune. Its one of those parachuting ones that you operate with both hands and since the winds are perfect here IF you know what you are doing like the guys later showed us you can have fun. I just nearly killed my cousin by bomb diving it a couple of times, so decided that perhaps ill stick to dancing and only consider this sport if they add this as a new weapon in the military that I can operate!
Another strange thing I notice on the island is the taxis.... ive been used to fat old guys, battered old taxis but here on Gran Canaria there are female drivers, everyones very presentable and they are pretty much all brand new mercedes in Masopalams and new cars in las palmas.
When I was booking my ticket to meet my cousin in Barcelona so we could come to Gran Canaria together I didnt realise that the Canary Islands are in fact closer to Morrocco than Spain - 60kn infact! But I later learnt they like to keep themselves very seperate so there are no connections by air or sea between the two.
When our host Yeray had finished work he came to take us to another beach where the main sand dunes are - it looked awesome but sucked to walk up and down to go for a swim. My cousin and I resorted to commando rolls for a bit of fun and I of course found half the sand dunes in the shower that night from our adventures. This beach was infact a nudist beach and the guys found it perhaps amusing that I was so disturbed by the whole scene. We obviously kept our clothes on (could you imagine flying a kite naked??!) but there was one old guy who insited on taking photos of the kite flying whilst he stood there naked and his jewels dangled in the wind. I really really was disturbed and had to keep walking away as it appeared that all the old guys were loving the "free ball" sensation!
We had lunch at the infamou "Pepe Chiringos" (i know i have the name slightlt wrong) its like a McDonalds for the island and has sliced pork (my cousins favourite), and every other kind of dead animal. I resorted for the mixed "dead animal" and didnt have the enthusiasm for it as my cousin who apparently frequented the joint last time he was here. Whilst we were waiting for be served was Australia playing their first game for the world cup on tv - without realising I jump for joy as they score a goal much to my own embarressment so I then decide its time to be invisible for the rest of lunch. (who says im not patriotic to australia)
We went for a drive to some beautiful seaside towns that were so pretty I could have stayed there forever. The water in their ports was crystal clear and alive with little fish - theres no doubt the waters here are healthy and alive. We went snorkelling one day I think in a place called Sardina (?)and it was nice to snorkel and not think about damn sharks for a change!!! The coral was not alive but there were little fish everywhere - made me really appreciate how lucky we are to have the great barrier reef so close to home.
We also managed to have our first ever diving lesson - I dove a big 3 meters!! ha ha but it was good to experience and see if I think I could handle getting my liscense since Ive always been too scared in Australia. I definately felt the preassure on my chest and a couple of times felt pain in my ears but I guess slowly I will get used to it, but its deftinately not my last dive!
We ate at some delicious restaurants including one near these beautiful oceans with the infamous "Gods finger" rock formation that crashed into the ocean many years ago. The food was tapas of course but fresh seafood and the best fish I´ve had in a while. I have a new favourite dressing for food... moho just think garlic breath for the next 10 days!!! Its delicious and you have it on mini potatoes, everything you want I guess. It looks like its the Canary Islands answer to tomatoe sauce.
Eventually we moved up to stay with his family in an area called Las Palmas which is the main city and again with pretty building facades and streets planned out in grids (which one night I manage to get lost on 5 min from the house - i know me lost??!!) I have never experienced such hospitality from complete strangers, I dont know if its a Spanish thing or we were just very lucky but we were treated like family (perhaps even better) and feed like kings! One morning we experienced churros which is like a long coil donut that you dip into chocolate for breakfast - delicious! The crossiants on the island were the best Ive EVER eaten - they could teach something to the French. Then there was my other new favourite Tortillas with potatoes or Spanish omelette - oh I could eat this from the packet day and night! And then I was super lucky enough to be the student whilst his mum showed me how to make paella mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. She only spoke Spanish but somehow we managed to communicate and understand each other through gestures and sometimes a bit of Italian and Spanish combined. I was a little disturbed watching the lobster get killed - i know i know but it was brutal and I just kept thinking of that episode of The Simpsons where Homer has a pet lobster and he dies in the hot water so Homer eats him (yes mum I know im too old for The Simpsons). It was delicious though and I am now all for killing lobsters :)
I was very excited to double on the Ducati to go up the mountain to see an old volcano crater - it was too dark to see it in detail but it looked awesome and to see the city on fire from the San Juan festival was brilliant too.
I think my favourite days of this trip was the day at the nudist beach and the last day for the San Juan festival where traditionally you burn all rubbish on this day so the island has little bonfires everywhere are you choke a little on smoke. But they apparently used to write out their wishes and throw them into the fire and jump over it - a pagan festival but that is no longer allowed so they just do the bonfires and everyone heads to the beach just before midnight for the fireworks and a swim. I wasnt quiet sure what to expect but when we arrived to thousands on people on the beach and in the water and brilliant fireworks I felt like I was on Copacabana beach in Rio! It was kind of like NYE at Sydney Harbour and a nite where the police turn a blind eye to all the young revellers (us included) carrying coke bottles filled with rum around. Everyone had a brilliant night with their friends swimming, dancing, playing instruments on the beach. I would just like to complain that they failed to put those portable toilets along the beachfront so as a woman (unlike the men pee-ing anywhere) I was forced to walk 1km to a bar and beg I mean literally beg to use the bathroom before the biatch finally agreed. The festival was clearly organised by a man - thank you!
3am came and my cousin was keen to go home and pack for our 9am flight, I conspired with the others to change the times on their phones/watches - unfortunately I forgot to keep his camera from him so he saw the time but we grovelled for him to stay out.
Eventually at something like 6.30am (i think) we found our way home so I could pack and be at the airport....needless to say after so much rum I felt quiet ill on the plane and all the next day but felt I had done what the locals do and enjoyed the festival in true Canarian style :)
So thank you to loving hosts we had a wonderful time and are indebited to you all when you want a holiday in Australia :)
On another note.... this is a RyanAir announcement... think twice before booking such a shit airline...if you think you are getting a bargain be warned they will slog you for everything!!! You only get 15kg for the first bag you buy then its another 35 euro for your 2nd, THEN if you like us fail to check in online and print out your boarding pass, expect to pay 40 Euro to the cow behind the counter because she cant move her finger to hit print!!! Then the pilot will make sure the landing is as scary and bouncy as possible oh and not to mention they will try and sell you everything on board and drive you crazy with announcments - smoke free cigarettes for example and 3 euro for a mini bottle of water. This was my second and LAST experience with Ryanair - i would rather swim in shark infested waters next time! OH and they cancelled my cousins barcelona to italy flight an hour prior leaving him to pay 70 euro for a hotel that nite... nice. So Ryan Air you are shite and you got the blog your crap ass service deserves - the worlds worst airline for 2010!
Next blog....last days in Barcelona
Labels:
Canary islands,
Gran Canaria,
Las Palmas,
Masopalomas,
Ryan Air,
Ryanair,
San Juan
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