Well I have made it to "Incredible India" - its no where near as calm as that ad would like you to beleive but it delivers on adventure. So this is just a transit city for my trip as I work towards getting to Jaipur for the start of my Theatre with the kids program for the next few weeks.
So I forgot my card reader so cant post the pictures that I have taken so far - so let me paint pictures for you. My flight was with budget airline Air Asia who have el cheapo flights into India if you are prepared to work a little hard to get to your destination. The first observation that I kept thinking I have to remember to write was at KL airport the check in queue - um I was the only female in the line! I should mention I was dressed in my Salwar Kameez - looking more like a white Punjabi girl as I kept being told. Now I have been very lucky on this trip with my excess luggage (jinx) and thankfully my little Punjab outfit managed to distract the ground staff who were too busy complimenting my outfit to notice that I was overweight - score!
The other vision that I just didnt have the guts to photograph was the boarding line for the flight to Dhaka - now if I was going there I would have had a heart attack - the flight was full and not a female in sight - Im talking a couple of hundred dark Pakistan men. On my flight there was only a few of us and I already got excited when I saw 3 other crazy white tourists on this flight to Trichy (such excitement is usually reserved for at least a few weeks into your trip when you are deprived of foreigners).
The flight from KL to Tiruchirapally (Trichy) was 3hrs 45min -plus the one hour delay. So knowing India I spent the flight preparing myself for the fact that my driver would have given up and gone home - not the case thankfully. Trichy airport is a heap more modern than I expected - it even kicks Hobarts butt! The AC was much appreciated with such strict passport control in Trichy which surpassed the slack efforts of the Denpasar officials who were only interested in parting us with our $25USD arrival tax. After about 6 passport inspections I was free! I noticed an "Interrogation" room as the door clearly stated and some poor Indian guy being lead in there - images of some harsh Bollywood scenes played in my mind. Also two glass doors - one room each that was the size of a phone booth with the writing something along the lines of "none permitted entries for females" and the same for men - it was like a fish bowel so that everyone in the line can stare at those who are being denied access to the country.
I managed to befriend one couple at Trichy airport who hadnt organised their accomodation so I suggested they get a lift with my driver to my hotel and go from there - one of the local cab drivers then abused me for stealing his business - oops! This couple were Irish and they proceeded to tell me that they are in India for the next four months and are planning on purchasing a motorbike to tour the country this way - I told them they were brave this being their first trip to India but I can only imagine how strong a people it will make them if they can survive.
Outside the airport was so much more civilised than I was trying to prepare myself - just thinking of my experience at Phnom Penh bus station and the fight for my business between potential drivers. There was my very patient driver from the hotel holding and A4 piece of paper with my name supersized in caps - let the games begin I thought. We walked to a little white hatch which his key didnt seem to work in then we strolled across this large carpark (alarm bells starting to ring) another wrong car and I was trying to work out exactly what was happening - it was all fine my version is that the hotel sent him there by bus and he collects a hire car to drive me to the hotel as I can see it has car hire stickers.
So we just squeeze my bags in the boot and enter the mad road traffic. I pushed my seat back as far as I could and put on the seat belt which caused the driver to snicker - safety first I say. Off we went - again I spend the next few minutes in shock that its just not as mad as I remember or is it that I am becoming immune to 3rd world - whatever the case I like that I have no butterflies in my belly and I even feel at peace in the car next to this mad driver whose hand was permanently glued to the horn for our entire 15min drive.
I just sat there and breathed it all in - yes the air was relatively clean compared to my encounter on a roundabout last trip in New Dehli. One view I should have taken a photo of and is so typical of India was a packed local bus with half the passengers hanging out the door as they are all packed like sardines in there. Tuk Tuk's with drivers holding their throttles tight struggled to keep up with my drivers jerk neck speeds weaving the traffic - a smile came on my face (I know I dont know what is wrong with me).
A group of men were playing volleyball in what appeared to be like housing commission for the area as the sign read "Tamil Nadu Transitional Camp". Scooters with families, old men pedalling on bicycles, food carts but no cows in sight!
Arriving at my hotel - Hotel Mathura the reception was relatively nice and I was lead up to my room by a young boy who took my bags and he looked like the little kid who works in the restaurant in the movie Slumdog Millionare - identical! He took me into my "deluxe suite" 1,200 rupee ex tax per night (approx $30AUD) I have a little sitting room which leads onto the bedroom and toilet. He puts on the fan at jet strength and the AC on Antartic Freeze and departs with my 100 rupee tip ($3) see this is the prob I always struggle with - you dont want to tip too high because then they expect all tourists to do the same and you dont want to insult them by going too low but after watching locals at breakfast this morning the norm appears to be coins not notes for tipping which means 1 rupee!! He must have liked my tip as he later return with a stone size bar of soap and ragged looking white but clean towel.
So I was in two minds as to whether I should really start the adventure and go for a stroll down the street with the bus horns blarring outside my window or relax eat, shower and call it a night. I had read in my trusty Lonely Planet that there was a delicious restaurant down the lane that is frequented by locals - Sri Krishna Vege Restaurant. I was really taken back as I walked down the drive way to this really clean and bustling open air restaurant with locals dining with their families. I even got to hear a family attempt to sing Happy Birthday in English.
The waiters were all immactuately dress in super tight skinny leg black pants and crisp white ironed business shirts tucked in with black bow ties. The heads of hair brushed into place by comb - ahhh some Australian waiters could learn a thing or too from these guys. The kitchen was open and a hive of activity. Beleive it or not the women wore hair nets and everyone had gloves on!!! I know I cant beleive it either! The place ran like clockwork - waiter takes your order, kitchen prepares, food runners deliver it to your table, manager checks its all ok, little lady pushing a trolley collects empty plates the second you finish!
I put the fate of my stomach in the hands of the waiter and manager and said just not spicy - they said mild but I know that means at least a couple of days of discomfort so I said no spicy. They asked if I would prefer North Indian or South Indian cuisine - I said we are in South so South - manager informs me I am dressed like a North Indian so he wanted to check. He recommend the Tomato Oompath.... cant remember the spelling - I nod and my stomach curses me and demands to know what the heck I am up to. 5 min later - fastest service I have ever experienced in India out comes a plate covered with a banana leaf and what looks like a pizza with basil and sliced tomatoes and a plate with 4 stainless steel dishes of dips - spicy, spicy, sweet and ok. I devoured it and ordered a second one impressed my stomach agreed. I ordered two large bottles of Pane (water) one for now and one for the room. Dinner came to168 rupee ($4?) my tip wasnt so generous this time as I was working out that you should keep it to coins but I just used smaller notes as I felt bad considering the great service, atmosphere and food.
A few observations I have made of the South Indian people so far - skin is darker, women wear saris instead of salwar kameez, even the poorest women have fantastic gold jewellry, English isnt a language most know so they come across almost snobby as they are not confident to speak with you, tourists are not as common as in other parts of the country I have been, the food is delicious, kitchens cleaner, food is freasher and meals come out in lighting speed. One thing that isnt different is you hustle for your spot in qeues - actually forget lining up just get to the front - elbows out is what I observed one old sweet lady of about 60 in her saari do!
Feedback on the hotel -staff are accomodating, I wouldnt say they go out of your way but its sufficient service, rooms and sheets are clean but after my bedbug experience in India last time I always sleep in a cotton sleeping back liner and even with the AC some mosquitoes still live in the room so I have a mosquito net. Hot water is missing so I froze in my 3 min shower last night. Breakfast is not included but there is a restaurant downstairs that serves yummy Chai, omelette, toast, fruit plate and fresh juice for 80 rupee. So far my stomach loves me but I must admit compared to my usual germ phobia Im using cutlery, cups, eating fruit, drinking milk and am feeling ok (fingers crossed).
Trichy is famous for a huge Rock Fort about 8km from the centre of the city - I wont have time today to visit as I leave in an hour but hopefully next trip on my way out of India. Am typing this from an internet shop across the street from the hotel for 10 rupee an hour - cheap cheap!
Onto Chennai next stop - stay tuned. Namaste!
Friday, February 5, 2010
Tiruchirapally - Tamil Nadhu
Labels:
Hotel Mathura,
South India,
Tamil Nadhu,
Tiruchirapalli,
Tiruchirapally,
Trichy