Pushkar:India - March 2010

My grand arrival into Pushkar on the back of a fruit/luggage cart sets the scene - my hotel comes in sight, a huge old fortress wooden door ready for war - Inn Seventh Heaven is the hotels nams. Greeted with the "No Commission" sign on the door - is this the only place in India not paying commission :)



Enterting through the doors my worries from the adventures actually getting here are long left behind. The first sight you are greeted with is a beautiful courtyard - white marble/granite with a Morroccon style waterfountain that has been thoughtfully decorated with Fuscia coloured rose petals. The receptionist Mavi greets me with what I will soon learn is his energetic self and great sense of humour. I'm promised he will return my passport later "maybe" thankfully I can tell he's joking. So a brave man lifts my backpack onto his shoulder and I am told to follow him to my room. The hotel is full for the length of most of my stay but I am offered a room in the adjoining building called Konica House. I was a little anxious at the time of booking as I really did want to stay in Seventh Heaven but I thought I would give it a couple of nights and see how I feel.



After climbing a maze of stairs up and down we arrive to my room - double bed, fan, adjoining private bathroom with a shower (hot water!!!) and my own private balcony overlooking the sidelane below - complete with a beautiful bougavillea, succulent plants and burnt orange chiffon curtains on the balcony for some privacy. I immediately liked the feel of my room - maybe it was living in that dungeon in Jaipur for a month that made me appreciate such a simple room but it was cosy and I decided mine for the next 15 nights at 450 rupee a night - bargain!



I went for a stroll to the hotel's rooftop restaurant and was greeted by guys who ended up feeling like my Indian brothers during my stay. Each of them too pranksters - offering me my muslei on the first morning with a ketchup bottle saying "here is some ketchup for your museli" - I fell for it as everyone in India appears to be ketchup mad thanks to the Brits. I politely declined and Sam insists that I try this Indian favourite - I hand him the bottle and politely decline again - he laughs and says its honey. This sense of humour amongst the staff is what makes this hotel a great place to stay. They look after you like family and their joking puts you into relax mode as you remember not everything in India is meant to be full throttle.



As I was saying the rooftop restaurant had brilliant food and reasonable prices and they even had salads which all the greens they wash in purified water so the tourists dont need to worry about Pushkar belly. This was my first salad since leaving Australia and it rocked - I have a new recipe for salads :) I even braved the Lassi's here as I figured they would be putting their yoghurt in the fridge - delicious again.



There were two resident dogs at the hotel - one who was similar to a bear and who got shaved just before I left - poor thing got the worst haircut in history. The hotel is an old haveli residence and has aroudn 3-4 floors with typical mughal style arch-ways and my all time favourite that I love and am demanding I own in this lifetime - a Indiand chair swing. Don't think of those tacky one's from your local hardware store that nan or pop owned, we are talking hand-carved wood with red velour cushioning and gold chains securing this to the ceiling. One night after dinner I was so snug reading on the swing that I feel asleep and when I woke up and grabbed my things to go to my room I left behind my Lonely Planet for India!! Someone in the hotel scored it and the next day I was eyeing anyone carrying the same edition as mine - which was everyone - dammit. So just like there is a market for stolen shoes from temples here in India, I soon discovered there is a market for 2nd hand Lonely Planets - this time I have stuck on a Shiva and Pavarti god sticker on the front and written a friendly karma reminder notice in the front cover for it's safe return if found.



I had been to Pushkar around 5 years earlier for a couple of days as part of my tour so I already had my bearings of what is where - which isn't really hard when this is a main road that has the bazaar. But last time I didnt get to explore and the lake which this town is famous for actually had water - this time it is empty as there apparently has been no rain since I left. This has completely changed the vibe of the town and hundreds of Hindu pilgrims flock here throughout the year as it has not only the Holy Lake for their early morning and evening poojas, but also India's only Bhrama temple.



One thing I discovered this time round is that Pushkar is not only a haven for foreign tourists (Israelis in particular), but Hindus from across India too. Every morning just as the sun was rising I would be woken by the pilgrim old women who were walking to the makeshift pools for their morning rituals and prayers at one of the many temples. They would be signing, talking loudly - some mornings there was even full brass bands playing. I would silently curse for my sleep deprivation than once the noisy group disappeared within a matter of minutes I was back asleep.



Everyday between 10-11am in Pushkar there is no electricity. Some tourists complain - and I certainlty wouldn't be overly happy in the middle of summer if I paid for an AC room, however the option to counter this is to have a huge noisy generator under some unlucky guests window splattering smoke and being offensively noisy just to comfort a few grumpy guests. I like that the hotel has chosen not to have this and instead puts up with the power outage. In summer apparently the power is out more than 1 hour a day - note to readers considering Pushkar don't come hear between March and Sept - tooooooo hot. Summer is just starting here but it was already getting unbearable and for a town with an empty lake and huge pipe bringing in water from a nearby dam, I wonder the environmental impact of the tourists and pilgrims in this city - but this is India they are no where at that point to care yet.



The bazaar in Pushkar is brilliant - so many hippy clothes catering to foreign tastes. If you like the Byron Bay markets in Australia then you would love Pushkar - dread-locked hippies with their barefoot children and Israeli's as far as the eye can see. As I have said to a few people I keep eaves dropping on Israeli conversations as their accent reminds me of Adam Sandler's movie "Don't mess with Zohan". It took me about a day to ask some Israelis if the Mokantakan restaurant chain they show in the movie is real and sadly no :(



I've decide that on my next trip to India I will instead of bringing clothes just come with an empty bag to Pushkar and fill up on suitable cotton clothes for the rest of my trip - too easy and for $50 you can be set! I have to say the restraint I showed to not go clothes shopping is applaudable - so I rewarded myself with jewellry shopping instead :) When travelling I seem to have 3 things thta I now like to buy from the different countries - textiles, paintings and unique jewellry pieces. In the case of Pushkar they offer a huge variety of stering silver pieces - more tribal influences and those that you find in your local Tree of Life / crystal boho shops. I really wanted a nice silver bangle but failed in finding one that I liked and would wear when I'm back in reality. So I befriended a store owner in the back alleys near my dance teachers home out of the bazaar to buy a heap of antique gypsy pieces for ridiculously cheap compared to the bazaar - I almost felt guilty that they were so cheap so decided I should buy plenty to at least help this poor guy with some business :) I bought a pair of traditional Rajisthani ankles - not super noisy but they are sterling silver and have little balls hanging with the evil eye, I bought a pair of beautiul Rajisthani toe rings and one toe ring set of 3 rings joined by chains that I have seen many of the gypsies wearing. I also bought a heap of individual necklace pieces representative and worn by the different castes. All up I think I spent $60 and walked away with wayyyy too much but something special to me.

Pushkar also has the famous old Rangi Temple that one American lady Colleena Shakti leases a room from and teaches dance classes in Odissi, Tribal and Khabelia Gypsy style dance. I had been admiring her website for months and decided to attend classes there. I enjoyed the gypsy classes which gave you a rare chance to dance with the local gypsy women and learn some of their beautiful moves that influences the Romany gypsies and hand movements that you can today see a part of Flamenco (you need to watch the movie Latcho Drum). I have one little incident to show true gypsy entrepenuership in action. My teacher at the end of my class was sitting with her sister, friend and 1 year old baby and asked if I would like to join them for a Chai, I agreed and off we went to the bazaar to one of her local friends stores. One the way she asked another store for their business card and over chai she gave this to me with her name and said if I would like to post her any clothes or anything from my country I could send them to this stores address with her name on the front. Clever I thought and obviously something that other dancers have done to date. Then a few more people joined us for chai and one gypsy yelled across at me - "madam ek chai" one chai - that's when the penny dropped - I'm paying for everyone's chai. Cultural difference #1 dont assume that when you are invitied to chai that everyone will pay their way, these are gypsies! So I agreed and learnt my lesson quick smart that they are a cheeky and crafty crew :)



Another favourite in Pushkar is the local falafel hawker stand - there are two next to each other, go to the one one your right when you are facing them. After my first visit to them everyday after, twice a day, they greet me with "Namaste madam how are you?" with the hugest smiles. For 50 rupee I had the best falafel roll I have eaten in my life along with pretty damn good hummous and labne (like Tzatiki) obviously this is a recipe thanks to some brilliant visiting Israeli. I asked one Israeli what the go is with so many of them in Pushkar - I think it looked like 80% were from Israel, to the point where signs are everywhere written in Hebrew and shopkeepers and quiet often fluent in the language too! I was told that back home if you say you are going to India, as an Israeli everyone knows to visit Manali, Pushkar and Goa as they have huge communities of Israeli tourists. I guess it's like Aussies in Phuket and Bali really.



One evening - well most - there was a brass band playing tunes for yet another religious ceremony. One particular night walking back to the hotel they were shutting the roads down and we soon discovered a Vishnu procession was to take place. Waiting patiently roadside in the bazaar the strangest scene unfolded infront of me. Aside from the ear-drum bursting terrible keyboard distortion they were calling music, these old old men were pushing HUGE generators on wheels and attached walking almost like a prisoner line ahead were what looked like the local prisoners of Pushkar carring lights on their head attached to the next guy by a electrical cord - a chain of these around 1 km long. My friend and I agreed these guys looked super scary and later learnt that most of them are street people who would have been paid 100 rupee for the night to carry these lights on there head and swallow the terrible smoke from the generators. One old guy saw me taking photos and started dancing with the light on his head - neadless to say I have captured his toothless self dancing with the light on his head all on video.



Being one to not turn down an opportunity to try something new and punish my stomach (ie. the taranchula in Cambodia) I have read about "Pan" in numerous books and decided that it was time I gave this beetle-nut and green tabacco leaf combo a try (this too will go on youtube) as I write this now I am gagging remembering the foul taste. So they have these little Pan stalls along the streets throughout India and for around 10 rupee you get a green leaf, some brown sauce (could be liquid tobacco), aniseed, cardamon, bettlenut and some other terrible ingrediants. You put it in the side of your mouth and chew - I had a bit of an audience wondering what this crazy foreign woman was doing. I decided to bite a bit and chew - f__ terrible! Just think of your toilet cleaner and that's about it. Needless to say I politely spat it into the gutter and kept gargling water to get rid of the taste. Why do I do these things to myself??



Another attraction for many of the tourists and some won't admit, but Pushkar has a serious drug problem - pot town! You often walk through clouds of the stuff and can see tourists with lovely red eyes. One restaurant we were eating at one afternoon decided that since no-one was around that they made us a special pot lassi as a "gift" Amsterdam yes - India no so I politely declined while I watched our pizza guy smoke a joint whilst making my magarihita. The thing that bothers me most with this situation in Pushkar is that it is affecting the locals. Young kids are being influenced by Westerners to smoke pot and drink beer in a Holy City that dosen't permit these. Seedy characters in an abundance surface at night once the bazaar has closed offering you pot and even opium on one night stroll. I'm told by locals that even some of the gypsies are selling (of course) and prostitution is on the increase amongst the young girls and some filthy tourists.

This was the downside to spending more than a few nights in Pushkar, the image of this pretty little town was ruined for me when I got to see what was really going on and being a small town you start to get to know everyone and who does what.



But I refuse to let it ruin Pushkar completely - its a beautiful little town and aside from this one seedy aspect I think it's a great break from the madness of the big Indian cities. I loved that every day on my way to dancing the locals would call from their shopfronts with "Namaste" "Nice salwar kameez madam" "I like this colour" some of the crazy things they say to get you to look at their shopwares. And the chai that is instantly offered when you browse their store - but just know that you really should buy something if you plan to sit chat, have chai and take up so much of their time. I saw too many tourists do it for the chai and the chat with a local experience and over time this is only going to piss them off.



Some days it was too hot and I lazed on the hotel roof or on my balcony shared with my resident gecko so fat from mosquitoes that he was the size of a baby blue tongue lizard! But that makes sense why I never gotten bitten in my room with no net or lotion on.



One little old man that has made an impression and I hope to visit next time was located on the corner next to the hotel. He sells the usual water, juice and toilet paper, but also does paintings for people. There are many of these in the main bazaar but because this guy is out of the way he is more price competitive and nicer to tourists. On the day I arrived he was doing the most beautiful Shiva and Pavarti painting and everytime I walked past I would compliment him on how good it was coming along. We had this little exchange everyday with each new painting. Then one day he said he wanted to show me something and to follow him. Normally I wouldn't walk into a building with some random but I could tell he was fine and that he had something to share. Upstairs in his small flat that he shares with his wife and son is this huge canvas stretched approx 5-6 metres wide. Some German restaurant owner has this picture of police on one side of a bridge and party goers on the otherside. They were just starting and had one day to complete this for him - painted by 3 men in total. It was amazing so over the next day he kept calling me back to check out it's progress. He loved his work and it was very special to see this being handed down to his son. I promised that next time in Pushkar I would come prepared and have some pictures for him to paint.



When my time drew to a close in Pushkar I was ready and happy to move on, it had been a little too long and I'm learning that I like to stay a few days and then move one. Plus after being headbutted in the gut by a cow (it was an accident on both our parts) and I have dodged enough cow crap for a life time - they say Paris is bad with dog poo - visit Pushkar and think of the poor lady who is sweeping that into her dustpan every morning.



Next stop Amritsar....