Once I settled in it was time to explore Marrakech and see if it lived up to the hype! The main square that I had lunch at during the day (Djemaa el-fna) is abuzz day and night. Snake charmers, Berber doctors and dentists, acrobats and muscians with huge copper castanets that remind me of a more developed version of the woodon ones they use in Rajasthan, India (again see the Gypsy trail). At night old men with lanterns sit and tell stories whilst local crowds gather around to hear their stories - I was so fascinated at their love for story telling. Im not talking about one many doing this - throughout there square there would be 6-10 of these guys with their story telling, sometimes they had a singer or music to accompany their stories - if only I knew what they said!!
Then there was the male cross dressing bellydancers - that you wouldnt realise as they are in full galabia (like a kaftan) and a head and face veil - thanks Lonely Planet for the warning otherwise I might have gotten excited and wanted to join them. Then there was muscians playing the traditional music of the Gnawa - I just cant beleive how much like South African music they sound - I dont know why I was shocked but their rythyms and voices sounded so similar I was really shocked but really excited - I seriously wanted to jump into the middle of the circle and dance, but was a little put off when Im trying to video and within a second on of the band members stands in front with his hat asking for money - couldnt you wait?? no thats the point - no pay, no watch.
I didnt spend as much time in this square day and night as I would have liked to and if I revisit I will ensure I get a guide to interpret the stories for me as they appeared very intriguing.
You read about the Medina's and their winding alley ways and how you will get lost and have to pay a child a few dirham to help get you out - that didnt quiet happen, we just never found what we were looking for!! To find one mosque should have been pretty simple - look up into the sky for the minaret, but the walls tower so high that we must have walked past it a million times over!
We stumbled across the Museum de Marrakech - which is a showcase of old black and white photos, lots of beautiful old kaftans all housed in an old riad with a gorgeous centre courtyard perfect for some mint tea - I think this was my last glass there as I just cant stomach anymore!
The disappointing experience here was there was a lovely curvey old Berber maid there to serve us tea in the courtyard, she would do what they all do and hold the pot in mid air letting the tea pour into the gorgeous Moroccan tea glasses. I thought she would make a perfect photo so asked if she would mind - of course not but for a few Dirham only! It was also all hush hush of course as Im sure her manager would not approve of harassing tourists for such rewards. On this particular day I was struggling with the fact that no Moroccan would pose for photos, unlike in Turkey where everyone would happily pose and not expect a dime in return. Marrakech was proving to be the complete opposite - I was taking an alley way shot of a camel cart and a few people - no close up's, just a street scene and this old man goes off. I checked incase I had taken photos of a veiled woman which is a no-no, but I hadn't and this just kept happening all morning to the point where I gave up on taking photos and cursed at everyone perfect photo opportunity that I was missing - and there were lots!
Walking through the lane way we came across a carpenter who was actually happy to pose for a photo as he took a piece of cedar wood and turned it into a chess piece within a few seconds using his feet, hands and some old tool. Of course, it was a sales tactic and after my photo we had to go into the store and look "only looking" which turned into a purchase - a wooden magic box that you have to push and pull and few things to find the key and open it from the hidden lock - they have way too much time on their hands ;)
One really nice encounter was in a little glass bottle store - you can buy all sizes and shapes of glass bottles set in silver with embossing for use with perfume, oils etc. I decided they were perfect and liked he was away from the tourist trap so expected better prices and that he would probably get a decent cut too. So after a friendly banter of negotiations in French and through the help of a calculator and pen and paper to confirm prices, they were sold. At the time I was wearing my blue kaftan and a white headscarf - mainly to keep the sun off my head but also as we were in a local neighbourhood and I wanted to be respectful covering up. It appeared my efforts did not go unnoticed with this old guy who claimed I looked like a Berber woman!
That evening it was time to test out the Moroccan hammams and enjoy a delicious set menu dinner at La Maison Arabe. The ambience in the hammam could not be faulted - lying on a rubber mat, and steam instead of the hot marble platform could be. I definately didnt enjoy the hammam being private either - it means you are in a tiny room in black marble, heat and its all a little too claustraphobic. The scrub couldnt compare either - imagine taking one of those exfoliating gloves with only water to your skin - well this is what she did and it was not enjoyable at all.
Dinner on the other hand in the same building was brilliant, delicious selections of Morroccan cuisine in an old renovated riad whilst enjoying live oud and Gnawa music.
Obtaining train and bus tickets for our road trip the next day to Essaouria and also to Fez on the 4th June was waaaaay too simple - Im used to the complexities of trains in India and was bracing myself for a painful experience. Instead the taxi driver who spoke no english somehow understood to wait whilst it took less than 5 min to purchase the train and bus tickets!
Language is a kind of a problem from what I've seen so far - everyone speaks French, Moroccan Arabic and Berber Arabic with only a little English. Suddenly I saying Asalaam Alaykoum in Arabic then Merci in French - Im using 3 languages to communicate what I want and when that fails with prices I start getting them to write it down.
The call to prayer is another interesting observation - at first I thought I was hearing a really loud old scooter stuck in gear - then I realised that it was the Muzzazin's call to pray - then they all started as there were several mosques and unfortunately I have to say it really is a call to pray rather than the hypnotic voices of the Turks call to prayer.
In general Marrakech is a little hectic but the mystery of the city overrides the congestion. I'm heading off to the coast next for a few days rest in Essauriou before coming back to Marrakech for 3 days. Next blog coming soon....
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