It's been a couple of days since our project start now and I think we are just getting into the rythymn of things. Monday morning was our orientation at the Jaipur city co-ordinators house after we dropped off one of the other volunteers at their local public school which they teach at. We were told about local customs, dress, expectations etc but nothing about essentials like where to buy water, setting up SIM cards, ATM's, transport and the fact that there is a public holiday on Friday - this is India you are supposed to live for the day ;)
So we arrived out our school later that afternoon to meet the children that we will be teaching for the next few weeks - they are in 4th and 5th standard as its called here - ranging from the ages of 7-9 years. We had the theatre co-ordinator with us so we could get an idea of what she expected of us with the kids over the next few weeks. The kids speak great English and were very sweet with their chorus of Namaste as we entered the room. We did a heap of theatre games with the children to get them moving, projecting their voices and just overall building their confidence.
We were a little suprised that we are actually at a private school for this project as our understanding is that we were to be teaching theatre to children from slum areas - so not too sure what's going on there. I have put in a request to work with the slum children also as I heard about a program where you can go in and teach English to them rather than theatre.
Now that I know I teach theatre at this one school 9-11am each day I am hoping to be able to also go across to the slums and teach English 12-2pm so am meeting this evening with the manger to see what we can do.
The two classes are both very sweet and really enthusiastic. Yesterday morning we arrived to see all the children lined up outside for their morning assembly - they were adorable! Then as they walked past us into their rooms they filed past one by one and clasped their hands to bow their heads and say namaste. Then one very sweet girl came up to my feet and in the hugest sign of respect in the Indian culture she knelt and touched my feet for blessings then her chest and said "Namaste Madam - Good morning to you" I wanted to cry and this created a repeat action from the next few girls who also wanted to do the same. I've seen enough Bollywood movies to know how special that is hence why I got really emotional about it (that or I'm just a big girl!). Class went extremly well again with numerous games and a chance to really bond with the kids.
Today I took my i pod along and we spent the morning using music and movement to "explore different ways of conveying emotion" yes in other words I got to do Bollywood dance with the kids. The teachers have spent the last few days during our class peaking their heads out of their room to see what we are exactly doing with the other children, the principal told us today that the kids have been going home raving to their parents what they have been doing and parents have been rining up very happy. I think the teachers are curious (like most Indians) as to why I am dressed as a Punjabi girl but clearly not Indian but I think they really appreciate that I am trying to speak Hindi and dressing conservatively. Today definately threw a spanner in the works when this white girl was teaching the kids Bollywood dance moves to all the latest Hindi tunes - one teacher came out and said she wanted to join us and the kids got a real kick out of hearing me name dropping their countries top actors and how to act like them. It was a brilliant morning.
On a more tourist note after class yesterday afternoon a couple of us decided to get a autorickshaw into the Pink City (CBD) to go visit the famour Hawa Mahal. On my last trip to India with the tour group we drove past and got a photo of the exterior but never got to go in an explore as with most tours it was all rush rush rush. So thanks to my trusty travel books we found our way in to the beautiful "palace of winds". It has a terracotta facade and beautiful "screens" from which the women of the royal families were able to sit and observe the day to day livings of those outside the palace. There are little wooden shutter windows built into these screens so that the women of the palace could pass or in some cases throw down gifts, notes and food to those below (that's what I read anyway).
Inside the Hawa Mahal was really beautiful architecture and as usual I found myself frustrated that when the technology and knowledge we have now days, we we just cant continue such a beautiful trade and technique in our buildings and homes. I took some amazing phots that as per my usual mission - are so far the shots of the trip (perhaps I need to break this down to shot of the city since I'm away for so long!). One shot was a beautiful old grandmother in saari with her grandchildren exploring the fort - she was a typical Rajasthani tribes woman and looked stunning as she posed for a photo in a Maharaja style temple for her grandkids. I asked if I could take a photo and they obliged willingly - I was so happy with the shot. Then up on the rooftop of this temple - very very high and no safety barriers, I sat there observing life below.. the city is surrounded by these rugged mountains that I can only compare to the images of those I have seen in Afghanistan. Then the square houses with flat rooftops meet the mountains and as you follow the skyline down to the main roads of the city you are greeted with thick Jaipur traffic. Amongst the traffic you can spot all sorts of things and it became a virtual game like "Where's Wally" except it was more like "What the hell can I find in the traffic" ......
1. couple of elephants
2. few cows
3. overcrowded sweatbox bashed up buses
4. too many auto and cycle rickshaws
5. beaten up cars (forget nice cars here)
6. scooters and cyclists competing for space with all of the above
7. humans risking their lives crossing anywhere there is space (that was me all day)
8. monkeys
9. Chai wallahs
10. markets markets markets
Panadol anyone?? Not at all it was heaven - for me anyway! At the Hawah Mahal I scored some great shots of the palace vs the city traffic - such a contrast. Not to mention the crazy monkey that decided to come up and pose whilst I thought about my lack of Rabie shots and them cutting my brain open to see if I really did die of Rabies (that's what the travel doctor told me would happen!!!).
A few of the other volunteers came to meet us at the palace and went to get a Lassi at the main MI Rd, but I decided it was time to break from the group and go it alone - as I always love to do. My mission was to find the dance school so that I could arrange some lessons in the classical Indian dance style of Kathak and possibly learn the Indian tabla. I did after a 2 hour adventure find it and will start my lessons next week hopefully.
The 2 hours that I went missing was something that I will never forget and probably never be able to convey just how amazing it was. I know if I had anyone with me it would never have eventuated that way as being solo seems to open more doors with people here in India when you are a foreigner. I found gemstone polishers on the streets displaying their wares on rags spread out on the dirty footpath, a poster seller of the various apparently 2 million + (??) Hindu gods alongside famous Bollywood stars (Yes I bought 5 posters for 100 rupee to brighten up my room). Somehow I found myself in a chai wallah area that was full of men and normally intimidating but my stubborn self shined through and I was determined to buy a samosa and chai from one of these hawkers. I know you can get pretty sick from these guys if you are unlucky but decided its time to live a little (yes coming to India was simply not hard enough clearly). So I walked up to this old Ghandi look alike in charge of selling the samosa and said "Eek samosa danyvard" 1 samosa thank you - 10 rupees later I had a hot hot samosa wrapped in newspaper in my hands - spicy is an understatement but as I sat there under a old torn blue tarp, with stray dogs around me, an old man in traditional muslim garb to my left and a curious Hindi guy on my right I was glowing. They saw me eyeing off their pot of chai that they were brewing for some waiting orders, so one customer comes over and asks if I would like a chai. I didnt even think about it but before I had a chance to think about my response with a very serious look I raised my eyebrows and flicked up my head - a typical Indian response for yes but perhaps resevered in roughness more for the guys to do. This caused such amusement to the customer that he ran over to place my order and tell the chai wallah what I had done - watching him re-enactment was hysterical and even I started to laugh. Bidding my new friends farewell and trying to make a mental note to remember where they were located I continued down the Johari Bazaar main rd and just as I spotted another elephant walking past in peak traffic, the local mosque started its call to prayer - I sat in the gutter and listened again with a huge smile on my face thinking how beautiful his voice was and envoking memories of my stay in Cairo.
As I walked past an alley way and thought to myself lets see if this is a short cut - I shook my head wondering why I was so confident that I knew where I was going and wasnt letting anyone in my way - then as I turn into this alley way my confidence is rewarded as I discover the entrance to the narrow wedding market - not actually called this but full of things needed for weddings since the season in India is just about to start. Saaris - I was peaking with excitement for the glitter, beautiful patterns, sequins, the hats for the groom, the accessories - if you know me well you know I was in heaven. I was the only none tourist in there so tried to hide as I took photos and observed as women bargained hard for the 10 or so saaris they need to survive wedding season - it was brilliant.
Jaipur is an amazing city so far - like any city you need to be prepared to walk, explore, communicate with the locals in their language and take a genuine interest for what's around you. I can't wait to head back in on Monday as I may have just been invited to my first Indian wedding for the season next Tuesday night which means I need to glam up! This Friday is a public holiday in India so I have been trying to organise transport to Udaipur or any city but its all booked up :( will keep trying my luck and have more news soon.
Namaste!
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
Monday, February 8, 2010
Day 3 Jaipur - Rajasthan
Sounds like there's a few people joining me on this journey - thanks for letting me know its very sweet to hear and really nice to hear from so many long lost friends. So early yesterday I flew "Spicejet" from Chennai to Jaipur via Hyperbad. I shared my row and kindly donated my window seat (needing some good Karma in India) to a cute old man who started our flight with a Hindu chant for the first 45min. He then out of a crusty old plastic bag (at least he recycles) and wrapped in news paper was a cardboard box containing a "tapas" of Indian vegetarian cuisine. As I continued to read my "Indian Summer" book he offers me a yellow ball and I politely decline - it appears though that Indians too dont understand what no means when it comes to you not eating food. So I took it and ate this sweet crumbly yellow ball - it was ok, not bad....
The flight was around 4 hours - it seems that all of India is on the same timezone which is impressive considering the size. Whilst I remember flying in India is interesting in more ways than one - not sure if I mentioned before but it appears alot of people dont quiet get the concept of locking the toilet door on the plane, so I get my thrills watching this routine take place on flights where someone goes in and dosent lock and an unsuspecting passenger goes up to open thinking its vacant as the sign is still green and... suprise! Ha ha ha cracks me up everytime.
So anyways back to Jaipur - the airports just seem to be getting better on my trips - its so deceiving! Jaipur airport has marble everywhere and outside the chaos begins - similar to Sydney airport you are not allowed to stop to pick up passengers you must park. But here instead of security guards just issuing fines they have a HUGE towtruck with a mega phone and this Rajistani is loosing his mind screaming at cars that stop and keeping his hand on the horn.
Thing is no-one cared less so he screamed more until people did eventually move - I made a mental note to send an email to Sydney airport suggesting they employ some big Leb guy to do the same thing doing happy laps in a fully sick tow truck - ha ha (promise im not being rude I would seriously love to see it happen - it would make the taxi queue at Sydney domestic so much more interesting!)
So I had the driver from I-to-I waiting for me - he was in a beat up old white van and off we went. Straight away I started practising my Hindi that I that I have been studying on my i pod. We arrived in the suburbs around 2km from the Pink City which Jaipur is well known for. Apparently when a previous Maharaja or Govenor (I know big difference) took over they painted the whole city Pink the colour means welcome - and it was to welcome King Edward.
So I'm staying at a homestay as part of the program which means a local Indian family whom I have discovered have blood lines with the Brahaman priests so are very strict Hindu's.
Our host is a husband, wife and 7 year old daughter who live in a 3 story concrete home - its very residential and looks quiet safe and probably well off for Indian standards where we are staying. There are another 2 volunteers here at the moment both from the UK - 18 and 19 years - both first trip anywhere in the world! I feel for them but they appear to be coping ok.
I was a little taken aback at first with my accomodation though - homestay invokes images of a room within a room of the family whom you are staying with right? wrong. We are in the basement of the house which seriously is infested with mosquitos, is so dark and gloomy with no windows, a toilet that doesnt flush so you need to use a bucket and fill it with water to flush it (should I mention that some little buggers just keep reappearing? Too far? sorry!)
The place was filthy - I am a germaphobe (yes I know and I come to India for a 2nd time) so thanks mum for the Pine-o-Cleen wipes I was in there cleaning the toilets, basin and area that is supposedly called a shower but are two tap heads in the perfect position for a washing machine connection! There's now shower head or even tiny bucket to sit with the large bucket to pour water over yourself - so the routine for a shower is as follows....
step 1: turn on tiny wall mounted heater 10 min prior to shower,
step 2: thongs on as its just standing in front of the toilet,
step 3: half fill the bucket with warm water and pour it over yourself
step 4: lather up my trusty shower puffy thing with hospital scrub soap
step 5: refill bucket half way and rinse
step 6: dry yourself with a thin excuse of a travel towel as purchased at Kathmandu
step 7: curse when you drop your undies on the wet floor
step 8: remind yourself its all part of the experience, smile and exit
So the plan is to brighten the room up with some pics and i bought a toxic tin of mozzie spray which nearly killed us, plus we mummify ourselves in the mosquito nets. Dinner with the family is each night at 8pm - she cooked a yummy chaapati and curry dinner last night and I found delicious mango juice at the shop down the street for 25 rupee - after I bought them out of 2lt waters for 15 rupee each. After dinner the family like to go for a walk around the park across the street which is like a super mini Hyde Park for the neighbourhood. It's sweet though that they all value it so very much and it was fun connecting with the little girl as she attempted to teach us to count in Hindi whilst riding her bike.
Breakfast is at 8am as our auto rickshaw driver picks us up to the school at 8.30am - our host has a door bell she has placed downstairs so she presses it in the morning to wake us for breakfast - it's super annoyingly loud and the tackiest tune! Plus there's no need for an alarm here as the street sellers are hawking their phones with horns, bells and megaphones around the neighbourhood by 6am - and I was complaining about the construction workers next door back home!
Tomorrow news on our first couple of days teaching at the various schools and the adventures about the Pink City. Namaste!
The flight was around 4 hours - it seems that all of India is on the same timezone which is impressive considering the size. Whilst I remember flying in India is interesting in more ways than one - not sure if I mentioned before but it appears alot of people dont quiet get the concept of locking the toilet door on the plane, so I get my thrills watching this routine take place on flights where someone goes in and dosent lock and an unsuspecting passenger goes up to open thinking its vacant as the sign is still green and... suprise! Ha ha ha cracks me up everytime.
So anyways back to Jaipur - the airports just seem to be getting better on my trips - its so deceiving! Jaipur airport has marble everywhere and outside the chaos begins - similar to Sydney airport you are not allowed to stop to pick up passengers you must park. But here instead of security guards just issuing fines they have a HUGE towtruck with a mega phone and this Rajistani is loosing his mind screaming at cars that stop and keeping his hand on the horn.
Thing is no-one cared less so he screamed more until people did eventually move - I made a mental note to send an email to Sydney airport suggesting they employ some big Leb guy to do the same thing doing happy laps in a fully sick tow truck - ha ha (promise im not being rude I would seriously love to see it happen - it would make the taxi queue at Sydney domestic so much more interesting!)
So I had the driver from I-to-I waiting for me - he was in a beat up old white van and off we went. Straight away I started practising my Hindi that I that I have been studying on my i pod. We arrived in the suburbs around 2km from the Pink City which Jaipur is well known for. Apparently when a previous Maharaja or Govenor (I know big difference) took over they painted the whole city Pink the colour means welcome - and it was to welcome King Edward.
So I'm staying at a homestay as part of the program which means a local Indian family whom I have discovered have blood lines with the Brahaman priests so are very strict Hindu's.
Our host is a husband, wife and 7 year old daughter who live in a 3 story concrete home - its very residential and looks quiet safe and probably well off for Indian standards where we are staying. There are another 2 volunteers here at the moment both from the UK - 18 and 19 years - both first trip anywhere in the world! I feel for them but they appear to be coping ok.
I was a little taken aback at first with my accomodation though - homestay invokes images of a room within a room of the family whom you are staying with right? wrong. We are in the basement of the house which seriously is infested with mosquitos, is so dark and gloomy with no windows, a toilet that doesnt flush so you need to use a bucket and fill it with water to flush it (should I mention that some little buggers just keep reappearing? Too far? sorry!)
The place was filthy - I am a germaphobe (yes I know and I come to India for a 2nd time) so thanks mum for the Pine-o-Cleen wipes I was in there cleaning the toilets, basin and area that is supposedly called a shower but are two tap heads in the perfect position for a washing machine connection! There's now shower head or even tiny bucket to sit with the large bucket to pour water over yourself - so the routine for a shower is as follows....
step 1: turn on tiny wall mounted heater 10 min prior to shower,
step 2: thongs on as its just standing in front of the toilet,
step 3: half fill the bucket with warm water and pour it over yourself
step 4: lather up my trusty shower puffy thing with hospital scrub soap
step 5: refill bucket half way and rinse
step 6: dry yourself with a thin excuse of a travel towel as purchased at Kathmandu
step 7: curse when you drop your undies on the wet floor
step 8: remind yourself its all part of the experience, smile and exit
So the plan is to brighten the room up with some pics and i bought a toxic tin of mozzie spray which nearly killed us, plus we mummify ourselves in the mosquito nets. Dinner with the family is each night at 8pm - she cooked a yummy chaapati and curry dinner last night and I found delicious mango juice at the shop down the street for 25 rupee - after I bought them out of 2lt waters for 15 rupee each. After dinner the family like to go for a walk around the park across the street which is like a super mini Hyde Park for the neighbourhood. It's sweet though that they all value it so very much and it was fun connecting with the little girl as she attempted to teach us to count in Hindi whilst riding her bike.
Breakfast is at 8am as our auto rickshaw driver picks us up to the school at 8.30am - our host has a door bell she has placed downstairs so she presses it in the morning to wake us for breakfast - it's super annoyingly loud and the tackiest tune! Plus there's no need for an alarm here as the street sellers are hawking their phones with horns, bells and megaphones around the neighbourhood by 6am - and I was complaining about the construction workers next door back home!
Tomorrow news on our first couple of days teaching at the various schools and the adventures about the Pink City. Namaste!
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Day 2 India: Chennai
So in my bid to board the most amount of planes in history in a period of 10 days, I boarded yet another flight and have 2 more to go until I reach my final destination for the next 3 weeks at least. Chennai - the capital of Tamil Nadu, headquarters for what the Tamil's call "Kollywood" instead of Bollywood.
I stayed at the Chandra Park hotel - a 45min drive from Chennai airport but well in the city centre. I was greeted by a rather young driver again with the token side parted and combed hairdo. Another tiny white hatch to load my bag into the minute space they call a boot.
The highway into Chennai is like any big city - still no cows on the rd though. Pollution was a little noticeable but I have to say that on my departure this morning it was insane like thick fog and I wondered how we were planning on flying!
My driver appeared to not be Horn Happy like th rest of the drivers in India - I later learned when he took me out later that night the horn dosent work all the time - ahhh that's why it was such a quiet ride.
The hotel like all of these budget/midrange hotels was set amongst a chaotic street of shopfronts with a driveway leading to the front door - really you wouldnt even notice them half the time. So I checked into my "standard single AC" room for 850 rupees ($20 something) for my one night transit. I have to confess the door boy took me up to my room with my bag in tow, unlocked, switched on yet another jet inspired fan and AC and then stood there waiting for a tip - thing was that I knew I only had 500 rupee notes and 10 - 50 rupees being the going rate and me running out of cash until someone will change travellers cheques I wasnt being that generous. So we kind of both had a stand-off - me not budging and nor him until he could see the dumb tourist was either dumb or tight. I did make it up to him later when I had change though - so there!
Room was average - cant complain really for $20 but I have to say the sheets although white had stains all over them - hence why I have my trust cotton sleeping bag liner. It was a noisy room right over the bar and being a Sat night and Indian trying Bollywood karaoke fuelled on toxic Indian spirits - their cheering went late into the morning - thank goodness for jet fans!
I decided I wanted to make the most of my few spare late arvo hours in Chennai and see what this proud city has on show. Now generally I am anti-driver and will opt for public transport if its straight forward enough to use - and I saw the MRT map for Chennai and thought I'll do it and then chickened out when I got to the hotel and saw the madness outside - fail.
So my driver took me over to the city's largest Hindu shrine (sorry cant remeber the name) it was beautiful and a nice start to the adventure. Mind you I completely forget where I was and walked in through the temple gates only to be yelled at by an old beggar sitting on the floor - next thing I have a gang of people yelling at me and the security guard waving his big patrol stick my direction - he just missed my head! I then clicked I still had my shoes on - ouch - so headed back out the gate looking for the "shoe lockers" I was wearing my new white Ascics - was expecting to never see them again as I traded my shoes for token number 4. But they proved me wrong and they were there upon my return - also with a couple of old ladies begging in the gutter where I had decided to sit and put my shoes on. They both asked for money so I did a trade off - my rupees for their photo as they were sweet enough looking in their brightly coloured saari's - deal closed. I was actually reading the local newspaper The Hindu at breakfast this morning and there was a story about a beggar that has been arrested here in India and they have discovered he lives in a lavish apartment that he uses his begging money to pay the rent for, along with a holiday apartment in another city, loads of jewellry etc. ha ha I wonder if those ladies got me too?!
So inside this temple where Hindus coming for family blessings, prayers and to make offerings. I wished I could spot a guide as I would have loved to understand what was going on sometimes. I took some amazing sneaky shots - this is where you aim the camera at an apparent building site and pretend to photographer this, but instead you zoom in on the unsuspecting gorgeous old ladies in saaris chatting with their friends. I know, I know but I made some offerings to clean me of my sins!
Next we headed over to another temple I think called the Rama Krishna temple - again for Hindu's. The exterior of this one wasnt as colourful or characteristic as the other, but in this instance I was actually allowed inside even though I wasnt Hindu and was invited to sit with those in prayer. There was this heavy feeling in the room - its like you could feel everyone's prayers or concentration - I cant put my finger on it, but it was very overwhelming.
From here I asked my driver to take me to Marina Beach - I was figuring it's like Mumbai's Chowpatty beach, Surfers Paradise or Bondi..... So according to my driver it's the 2nd largest beach in Asia - I asked him who was first he laughed and said he didnt know but was proud they were 2nd. So we are talking a 13km stretch of beach - dont think exotic beach, think more that the distance from the road to the water was a good 2km deep and when you looked around you swore you were in the desert at a massive rave with thousands of Tamil's!
The first words that came to mind when I saw the beach and the absolute thousands who had decended down there for their Saturday night romantic rendevouz, school excursions (?), family outings and stalls selling corn, drinks, icecream, fresh fish.... balloon and rifle firing games, men selling bamboo flutes and a million other useless knick knacks to part Indian's with their hard earned Rupees. Of course I copped the - "hello american lady" "hello miss" "I love you lady" even a marriage proposal from a boy that in Indian culture I could have been his mother!
After that fantastic experience I headed back to my hotel to get some dinner at a local restaraunt that everyone local was recommending just down an alley from my hotel. I put the fate of my stomach yet again in the hands of the waiter and although his intentions were good, he failed miserably. I said something not spice and vegetarian - he suggested a Kashmiri Naan and some other sweet curry dish - I agreed as I had a Kashmiri Naan once before and it was delicious. So out comes my tray with little side dishes that contained my curry and the naan - my most hated fruit is cherry - this entire meal was all about red and green cherries, sultanas and pineapple chunks. As I was running out of rupee I just had to force myself to enjoy it but in all honesty I was feeling ill and just kept trying to wash it all down with water and managed to find bread for 10 rupee to help free that cherry taste in my throat - yuck!
Oh and I have been trying since this morning to get an Indian sim card and was turned away from two phone stores in Trichy which I eventually understood that only Tamil's with local ID can purchase SIM cards. I managed to find dodgy brothers in Chennai (as you do in big cities) and for 70 rupee I now have a Indian mobile with Airtel who constantly bombard me with txt prompts to subscribe for cricket scores -nooooooo!
Stay tuned - next stop the long awaited arrival in Jaipur for the start of my Theatre project with the local school children. Namaste!
I stayed at the Chandra Park hotel - a 45min drive from Chennai airport but well in the city centre. I was greeted by a rather young driver again with the token side parted and combed hairdo. Another tiny white hatch to load my bag into the minute space they call a boot.
The highway into Chennai is like any big city - still no cows on the rd though. Pollution was a little noticeable but I have to say that on my departure this morning it was insane like thick fog and I wondered how we were planning on flying!
My driver appeared to not be Horn Happy like th rest of the drivers in India - I later learned when he took me out later that night the horn dosent work all the time - ahhh that's why it was such a quiet ride.
The hotel like all of these budget/midrange hotels was set amongst a chaotic street of shopfronts with a driveway leading to the front door - really you wouldnt even notice them half the time. So I checked into my "standard single AC" room for 850 rupees ($20 something) for my one night transit. I have to confess the door boy took me up to my room with my bag in tow, unlocked, switched on yet another jet inspired fan and AC and then stood there waiting for a tip - thing was that I knew I only had 500 rupee notes and 10 - 50 rupees being the going rate and me running out of cash until someone will change travellers cheques I wasnt being that generous. So we kind of both had a stand-off - me not budging and nor him until he could see the dumb tourist was either dumb or tight. I did make it up to him later when I had change though - so there!
Room was average - cant complain really for $20 but I have to say the sheets although white had stains all over them - hence why I have my trust cotton sleeping bag liner. It was a noisy room right over the bar and being a Sat night and Indian trying Bollywood karaoke fuelled on toxic Indian spirits - their cheering went late into the morning - thank goodness for jet fans!
I decided I wanted to make the most of my few spare late arvo hours in Chennai and see what this proud city has on show. Now generally I am anti-driver and will opt for public transport if its straight forward enough to use - and I saw the MRT map for Chennai and thought I'll do it and then chickened out when I got to the hotel and saw the madness outside - fail.
So my driver took me over to the city's largest Hindu shrine (sorry cant remeber the name) it was beautiful and a nice start to the adventure. Mind you I completely forget where I was and walked in through the temple gates only to be yelled at by an old beggar sitting on the floor - next thing I have a gang of people yelling at me and the security guard waving his big patrol stick my direction - he just missed my head! I then clicked I still had my shoes on - ouch - so headed back out the gate looking for the "shoe lockers" I was wearing my new white Ascics - was expecting to never see them again as I traded my shoes for token number 4. But they proved me wrong and they were there upon my return - also with a couple of old ladies begging in the gutter where I had decided to sit and put my shoes on. They both asked for money so I did a trade off - my rupees for their photo as they were sweet enough looking in their brightly coloured saari's - deal closed. I was actually reading the local newspaper The Hindu at breakfast this morning and there was a story about a beggar that has been arrested here in India and they have discovered he lives in a lavish apartment that he uses his begging money to pay the rent for, along with a holiday apartment in another city, loads of jewellry etc. ha ha I wonder if those ladies got me too?!
So inside this temple where Hindus coming for family blessings, prayers and to make offerings. I wished I could spot a guide as I would have loved to understand what was going on sometimes. I took some amazing sneaky shots - this is where you aim the camera at an apparent building site and pretend to photographer this, but instead you zoom in on the unsuspecting gorgeous old ladies in saaris chatting with their friends. I know, I know but I made some offerings to clean me of my sins!
Next we headed over to another temple I think called the Rama Krishna temple - again for Hindu's. The exterior of this one wasnt as colourful or characteristic as the other, but in this instance I was actually allowed inside even though I wasnt Hindu and was invited to sit with those in prayer. There was this heavy feeling in the room - its like you could feel everyone's prayers or concentration - I cant put my finger on it, but it was very overwhelming.
From here I asked my driver to take me to Marina Beach - I was figuring it's like Mumbai's Chowpatty beach, Surfers Paradise or Bondi..... So according to my driver it's the 2nd largest beach in Asia - I asked him who was first he laughed and said he didnt know but was proud they were 2nd. So we are talking a 13km stretch of beach - dont think exotic beach, think more that the distance from the road to the water was a good 2km deep and when you looked around you swore you were in the desert at a massive rave with thousands of Tamil's!
The first words that came to mind when I saw the beach and the absolute thousands who had decended down there for their Saturday night romantic rendevouz, school excursions (?), family outings and stalls selling corn, drinks, icecream, fresh fish.... balloon and rifle firing games, men selling bamboo flutes and a million other useless knick knacks to part Indian's with their hard earned Rupees. Of course I copped the - "hello american lady" "hello miss" "I love you lady" even a marriage proposal from a boy that in Indian culture I could have been his mother!
After that fantastic experience I headed back to my hotel to get some dinner at a local restaraunt that everyone local was recommending just down an alley from my hotel. I put the fate of my stomach yet again in the hands of the waiter and although his intentions were good, he failed miserably. I said something not spice and vegetarian - he suggested a Kashmiri Naan and some other sweet curry dish - I agreed as I had a Kashmiri Naan once before and it was delicious. So out comes my tray with little side dishes that contained my curry and the naan - my most hated fruit is cherry - this entire meal was all about red and green cherries, sultanas and pineapple chunks. As I was running out of rupee I just had to force myself to enjoy it but in all honesty I was feeling ill and just kept trying to wash it all down with water and managed to find bread for 10 rupee to help free that cherry taste in my throat - yuck!
Oh and I have been trying since this morning to get an Indian sim card and was turned away from two phone stores in Trichy which I eventually understood that only Tamil's with local ID can purchase SIM cards. I managed to find dodgy brothers in Chennai (as you do in big cities) and for 70 rupee I now have a Indian mobile with Airtel who constantly bombard me with txt prompts to subscribe for cricket scores -nooooooo!
Stay tuned - next stop the long awaited arrival in Jaipur for the start of my Theatre project with the local school children. Namaste!
Friday, February 5, 2010
Tiruchirapally - Tamil Nadhu
Well I have made it to "Incredible India" - its no where near as calm as that ad would like you to beleive but it delivers on adventure. So this is just a transit city for my trip as I work towards getting to Jaipur for the start of my Theatre with the kids program for the next few weeks.
So I forgot my card reader so cant post the pictures that I have taken so far - so let me paint pictures for you. My flight was with budget airline Air Asia who have el cheapo flights into India if you are prepared to work a little hard to get to your destination. The first observation that I kept thinking I have to remember to write was at KL airport the check in queue - um I was the only female in the line! I should mention I was dressed in my Salwar Kameez - looking more like a white Punjabi girl as I kept being told. Now I have been very lucky on this trip with my excess luggage (jinx) and thankfully my little Punjab outfit managed to distract the ground staff who were too busy complimenting my outfit to notice that I was overweight - score!
The other vision that I just didnt have the guts to photograph was the boarding line for the flight to Dhaka - now if I was going there I would have had a heart attack - the flight was full and not a female in sight - Im talking a couple of hundred dark Pakistan men. On my flight there was only a few of us and I already got excited when I saw 3 other crazy white tourists on this flight to Trichy (such excitement is usually reserved for at least a few weeks into your trip when you are deprived of foreigners).
The flight from KL to Tiruchirapally (Trichy) was 3hrs 45min -plus the one hour delay. So knowing India I spent the flight preparing myself for the fact that my driver would have given up and gone home - not the case thankfully. Trichy airport is a heap more modern than I expected - it even kicks Hobarts butt! The AC was much appreciated with such strict passport control in Trichy which surpassed the slack efforts of the Denpasar officials who were only interested in parting us with our $25USD arrival tax. After about 6 passport inspections I was free! I noticed an "Interrogation" room as the door clearly stated and some poor Indian guy being lead in there - images of some harsh Bollywood scenes played in my mind. Also two glass doors - one room each that was the size of a phone booth with the writing something along the lines of "none permitted entries for females" and the same for men - it was like a fish bowel so that everyone in the line can stare at those who are being denied access to the country.
I managed to befriend one couple at Trichy airport who hadnt organised their accomodation so I suggested they get a lift with my driver to my hotel and go from there - one of the local cab drivers then abused me for stealing his business - oops! This couple were Irish and they proceeded to tell me that they are in India for the next four months and are planning on purchasing a motorbike to tour the country this way - I told them they were brave this being their first trip to India but I can only imagine how strong a people it will make them if they can survive.
Outside the airport was so much more civilised than I was trying to prepare myself - just thinking of my experience at Phnom Penh bus station and the fight for my business between potential drivers. There was my very patient driver from the hotel holding and A4 piece of paper with my name supersized in caps - let the games begin I thought. We walked to a little white hatch which his key didnt seem to work in then we strolled across this large carpark (alarm bells starting to ring) another wrong car and I was trying to work out exactly what was happening - it was all fine my version is that the hotel sent him there by bus and he collects a hire car to drive me to the hotel as I can see it has car hire stickers.
So we just squeeze my bags in the boot and enter the mad road traffic. I pushed my seat back as far as I could and put on the seat belt which caused the driver to snicker - safety first I say. Off we went - again I spend the next few minutes in shock that its just not as mad as I remember or is it that I am becoming immune to 3rd world - whatever the case I like that I have no butterflies in my belly and I even feel at peace in the car next to this mad driver whose hand was permanently glued to the horn for our entire 15min drive.
I just sat there and breathed it all in - yes the air was relatively clean compared to my encounter on a roundabout last trip in New Dehli. One view I should have taken a photo of and is so typical of India was a packed local bus with half the passengers hanging out the door as they are all packed like sardines in there. Tuk Tuk's with drivers holding their throttles tight struggled to keep up with my drivers jerk neck speeds weaving the traffic - a smile came on my face (I know I dont know what is wrong with me).
A group of men were playing volleyball in what appeared to be like housing commission for the area as the sign read "Tamil Nadu Transitional Camp". Scooters with families, old men pedalling on bicycles, food carts but no cows in sight!
Arriving at my hotel - Hotel Mathura the reception was relatively nice and I was lead up to my room by a young boy who took my bags and he looked like the little kid who works in the restaurant in the movie Slumdog Millionare - identical! He took me into my "deluxe suite" 1,200 rupee ex tax per night (approx $30AUD) I have a little sitting room which leads onto the bedroom and toilet. He puts on the fan at jet strength and the AC on Antartic Freeze and departs with my 100 rupee tip ($3) see this is the prob I always struggle with - you dont want to tip too high because then they expect all tourists to do the same and you dont want to insult them by going too low but after watching locals at breakfast this morning the norm appears to be coins not notes for tipping which means 1 rupee!! He must have liked my tip as he later return with a stone size bar of soap and ragged looking white but clean towel.
So I was in two minds as to whether I should really start the adventure and go for a stroll down the street with the bus horns blarring outside my window or relax eat, shower and call it a night. I had read in my trusty Lonely Planet that there was a delicious restaurant down the lane that is frequented by locals - Sri Krishna Vege Restaurant. I was really taken back as I walked down the drive way to this really clean and bustling open air restaurant with locals dining with their families. I even got to hear a family attempt to sing Happy Birthday in English.
The waiters were all immactuately dress in super tight skinny leg black pants and crisp white ironed business shirts tucked in with black bow ties. The heads of hair brushed into place by comb - ahhh some Australian waiters could learn a thing or too from these guys. The kitchen was open and a hive of activity. Beleive it or not the women wore hair nets and everyone had gloves on!!! I know I cant beleive it either! The place ran like clockwork - waiter takes your order, kitchen prepares, food runners deliver it to your table, manager checks its all ok, little lady pushing a trolley collects empty plates the second you finish!
I put the fate of my stomach in the hands of the waiter and manager and said just not spicy - they said mild but I know that means at least a couple of days of discomfort so I said no spicy. They asked if I would prefer North Indian or South Indian cuisine - I said we are in South so South - manager informs me I am dressed like a North Indian so he wanted to check. He recommend the Tomato Oompath.... cant remember the spelling - I nod and my stomach curses me and demands to know what the heck I am up to. 5 min later - fastest service I have ever experienced in India out comes a plate covered with a banana leaf and what looks like a pizza with basil and sliced tomatoes and a plate with 4 stainless steel dishes of dips - spicy, spicy, sweet and ok. I devoured it and ordered a second one impressed my stomach agreed. I ordered two large bottles of Pane (water) one for now and one for the room. Dinner came to168 rupee ($4?) my tip wasnt so generous this time as I was working out that you should keep it to coins but I just used smaller notes as I felt bad considering the great service, atmosphere and food.
A few observations I have made of the South Indian people so far - skin is darker, women wear saris instead of salwar kameez, even the poorest women have fantastic gold jewellry, English isnt a language most know so they come across almost snobby as they are not confident to speak with you, tourists are not as common as in other parts of the country I have been, the food is delicious, kitchens cleaner, food is freasher and meals come out in lighting speed. One thing that isnt different is you hustle for your spot in qeues - actually forget lining up just get to the front - elbows out is what I observed one old sweet lady of about 60 in her saari do!
Feedback on the hotel -staff are accomodating, I wouldnt say they go out of your way but its sufficient service, rooms and sheets are clean but after my bedbug experience in India last time I always sleep in a cotton sleeping back liner and even with the AC some mosquitoes still live in the room so I have a mosquito net. Hot water is missing so I froze in my 3 min shower last night. Breakfast is not included but there is a restaurant downstairs that serves yummy Chai, omelette, toast, fruit plate and fresh juice for 80 rupee. So far my stomach loves me but I must admit compared to my usual germ phobia Im using cutlery, cups, eating fruit, drinking milk and am feeling ok (fingers crossed).
Trichy is famous for a huge Rock Fort about 8km from the centre of the city - I wont have time today to visit as I leave in an hour but hopefully next trip on my way out of India. Am typing this from an internet shop across the street from the hotel for 10 rupee an hour - cheap cheap!
Onto Chennai next stop - stay tuned. Namaste!
So I forgot my card reader so cant post the pictures that I have taken so far - so let me paint pictures for you. My flight was with budget airline Air Asia who have el cheapo flights into India if you are prepared to work a little hard to get to your destination. The first observation that I kept thinking I have to remember to write was at KL airport the check in queue - um I was the only female in the line! I should mention I was dressed in my Salwar Kameez - looking more like a white Punjabi girl as I kept being told. Now I have been very lucky on this trip with my excess luggage (jinx) and thankfully my little Punjab outfit managed to distract the ground staff who were too busy complimenting my outfit to notice that I was overweight - score!
The other vision that I just didnt have the guts to photograph was the boarding line for the flight to Dhaka - now if I was going there I would have had a heart attack - the flight was full and not a female in sight - Im talking a couple of hundred dark Pakistan men. On my flight there was only a few of us and I already got excited when I saw 3 other crazy white tourists on this flight to Trichy (such excitement is usually reserved for at least a few weeks into your trip when you are deprived of foreigners).
The flight from KL to Tiruchirapally (Trichy) was 3hrs 45min -plus the one hour delay. So knowing India I spent the flight preparing myself for the fact that my driver would have given up and gone home - not the case thankfully. Trichy airport is a heap more modern than I expected - it even kicks Hobarts butt! The AC was much appreciated with such strict passport control in Trichy which surpassed the slack efforts of the Denpasar officials who were only interested in parting us with our $25USD arrival tax. After about 6 passport inspections I was free! I noticed an "Interrogation" room as the door clearly stated and some poor Indian guy being lead in there - images of some harsh Bollywood scenes played in my mind. Also two glass doors - one room each that was the size of a phone booth with the writing something along the lines of "none permitted entries for females" and the same for men - it was like a fish bowel so that everyone in the line can stare at those who are being denied access to the country.
I managed to befriend one couple at Trichy airport who hadnt organised their accomodation so I suggested they get a lift with my driver to my hotel and go from there - one of the local cab drivers then abused me for stealing his business - oops! This couple were Irish and they proceeded to tell me that they are in India for the next four months and are planning on purchasing a motorbike to tour the country this way - I told them they were brave this being their first trip to India but I can only imagine how strong a people it will make them if they can survive.
Outside the airport was so much more civilised than I was trying to prepare myself - just thinking of my experience at Phnom Penh bus station and the fight for my business between potential drivers. There was my very patient driver from the hotel holding and A4 piece of paper with my name supersized in caps - let the games begin I thought. We walked to a little white hatch which his key didnt seem to work in then we strolled across this large carpark (alarm bells starting to ring) another wrong car and I was trying to work out exactly what was happening - it was all fine my version is that the hotel sent him there by bus and he collects a hire car to drive me to the hotel as I can see it has car hire stickers.
So we just squeeze my bags in the boot and enter the mad road traffic. I pushed my seat back as far as I could and put on the seat belt which caused the driver to snicker - safety first I say. Off we went - again I spend the next few minutes in shock that its just not as mad as I remember or is it that I am becoming immune to 3rd world - whatever the case I like that I have no butterflies in my belly and I even feel at peace in the car next to this mad driver whose hand was permanently glued to the horn for our entire 15min drive.
I just sat there and breathed it all in - yes the air was relatively clean compared to my encounter on a roundabout last trip in New Dehli. One view I should have taken a photo of and is so typical of India was a packed local bus with half the passengers hanging out the door as they are all packed like sardines in there. Tuk Tuk's with drivers holding their throttles tight struggled to keep up with my drivers jerk neck speeds weaving the traffic - a smile came on my face (I know I dont know what is wrong with me).
A group of men were playing volleyball in what appeared to be like housing commission for the area as the sign read "Tamil Nadu Transitional Camp". Scooters with families, old men pedalling on bicycles, food carts but no cows in sight!
Arriving at my hotel - Hotel Mathura the reception was relatively nice and I was lead up to my room by a young boy who took my bags and he looked like the little kid who works in the restaurant in the movie Slumdog Millionare - identical! He took me into my "deluxe suite" 1,200 rupee ex tax per night (approx $30AUD) I have a little sitting room which leads onto the bedroom and toilet. He puts on the fan at jet strength and the AC on Antartic Freeze and departs with my 100 rupee tip ($3) see this is the prob I always struggle with - you dont want to tip too high because then they expect all tourists to do the same and you dont want to insult them by going too low but after watching locals at breakfast this morning the norm appears to be coins not notes for tipping which means 1 rupee!! He must have liked my tip as he later return with a stone size bar of soap and ragged looking white but clean towel.
So I was in two minds as to whether I should really start the adventure and go for a stroll down the street with the bus horns blarring outside my window or relax eat, shower and call it a night. I had read in my trusty Lonely Planet that there was a delicious restaurant down the lane that is frequented by locals - Sri Krishna Vege Restaurant. I was really taken back as I walked down the drive way to this really clean and bustling open air restaurant with locals dining with their families. I even got to hear a family attempt to sing Happy Birthday in English.
The waiters were all immactuately dress in super tight skinny leg black pants and crisp white ironed business shirts tucked in with black bow ties. The heads of hair brushed into place by comb - ahhh some Australian waiters could learn a thing or too from these guys. The kitchen was open and a hive of activity. Beleive it or not the women wore hair nets and everyone had gloves on!!! I know I cant beleive it either! The place ran like clockwork - waiter takes your order, kitchen prepares, food runners deliver it to your table, manager checks its all ok, little lady pushing a trolley collects empty plates the second you finish!
I put the fate of my stomach in the hands of the waiter and manager and said just not spicy - they said mild but I know that means at least a couple of days of discomfort so I said no spicy. They asked if I would prefer North Indian or South Indian cuisine - I said we are in South so South - manager informs me I am dressed like a North Indian so he wanted to check. He recommend the Tomato Oompath.... cant remember the spelling - I nod and my stomach curses me and demands to know what the heck I am up to. 5 min later - fastest service I have ever experienced in India out comes a plate covered with a banana leaf and what looks like a pizza with basil and sliced tomatoes and a plate with 4 stainless steel dishes of dips - spicy, spicy, sweet and ok. I devoured it and ordered a second one impressed my stomach agreed. I ordered two large bottles of Pane (water) one for now and one for the room. Dinner came to168 rupee ($4?) my tip wasnt so generous this time as I was working out that you should keep it to coins but I just used smaller notes as I felt bad considering the great service, atmosphere and food.
A few observations I have made of the South Indian people so far - skin is darker, women wear saris instead of salwar kameez, even the poorest women have fantastic gold jewellry, English isnt a language most know so they come across almost snobby as they are not confident to speak with you, tourists are not as common as in other parts of the country I have been, the food is delicious, kitchens cleaner, food is freasher and meals come out in lighting speed. One thing that isnt different is you hustle for your spot in qeues - actually forget lining up just get to the front - elbows out is what I observed one old sweet lady of about 60 in her saari do!
Feedback on the hotel -staff are accomodating, I wouldnt say they go out of your way but its sufficient service, rooms and sheets are clean but after my bedbug experience in India last time I always sleep in a cotton sleeping back liner and even with the AC some mosquitoes still live in the room so I have a mosquito net. Hot water is missing so I froze in my 3 min shower last night. Breakfast is not included but there is a restaurant downstairs that serves yummy Chai, omelette, toast, fruit plate and fresh juice for 80 rupee. So far my stomach loves me but I must admit compared to my usual germ phobia Im using cutlery, cups, eating fruit, drinking milk and am feeling ok (fingers crossed).
Trichy is famous for a huge Rock Fort about 8km from the centre of the city - I wont have time today to visit as I leave in an hour but hopefully next trip on my way out of India. Am typing this from an internet shop across the street from the hotel for 10 rupee an hour - cheap cheap!
Onto Chennai next stop - stay tuned. Namaste!
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Bali Orphanages - Jan 2010
The start of my trip was a little unexpected detour for one week in Bali.
Rather than laze around the resort pool all day I decided to kick off my tour with what I love most - little kids! A visit to two orphanages that are based in Denpasar in Bali - Jodie O'Shea orphanage inconjunction with Bali Volunteer House and Seeds of Hope Children's Home provided me with a lot of little smiles and hope for the next generation of Balinese children.
I found over the last few days when you mention that you have visited an orphanage everyone seems to have pictures of doom and gloom. And yes I can understand that as it is sad that each one of these little one's cannot be with their families - but when you are there you realise these children are bonding with each other and are happy and grateful with their opportunity to be there.
Let me clear one thing up that I didnt realise prior to my visit to Cambodian orphanages in 2009 - they may have the name "orphanage" but it dosent actually mean that these children have no parents or family - 90% of these orphanages that the general public can visit are children who perhaps have at least 1 living parent, grandparent, aunt etc. It's just that their living situation at home is so poor that they would not have the luxury of an education, their own bed, 3 meals or the access to learning a second language like English. Orphanages such as these two in Denpasar take these children out of poor living conditions and give their future hope and a chance for survival rather than ending up in the child trafficking raquets, prostitution, no education and extreme poverty.
Formerly government run - Seeds of Hope Children's Home has just over 60 children whose parents can no longer afford to support their child so give them up in hope of a better future for their child. The idea of the program is that the children will study under the care and guidance of the home and return to their family with an education and a much better opportunity to help support their family. Upon arriving at this orphanage (which was very hard for my driver to find so be warned its best you have your driver speak to someone and keep their number with you for the drive) - I was greeted by half the children playing Waltzing Matilda on the Xylophone and some other bamboo wind instruments. Some of the other older girls were busy distributing water to the visitors like myself who had dropped in for the day from places such as France, Australian and England.
After their performance the children curiously came to mingle with their guests and I was lead around by two of the girls who wanted to show me the schools two pet monkies, their swings and play some basketball. A couple of ladies from the UK were volunteering for two weeks at the orphanage and said that they had found it very hard to volunteer anywhere in Bali - I'm guessing they found a lot of programs where you are expected to pay as volunteers - that's a whole new discussion and I will chat about that when I start my paid program in India.
Some of the children helped the staff prepare the hot coal fire for dinner which was to be fresh fish from the market that day. Some of the children told me they like to help prepare food and cook things like rice - which lead me to think there is a need/opportunity for cooking school just like good old home economics so that they children can leave when they are older know how to prepare basic meals according to their cultures traditions (actually why arent we all taught this back in Australia - I know men who cant boil an egg! :)
Next stop was at the Jodie O'Shea / Bali Volunteer House (BVH) orphanage - through BVH anyone around the world can come to Denpasar and stay in their purpose built accomodation providing that you have a loving personality and can prepare a program for the children to participate in each afternoon once they finish school 4-5pm for the juniors and 5-6pm for the 12yrs + teenagers.
As I already had accomodation it was agreed that I would drop in one afternoon and teach the juniors a one hour interactive world dance program, followed by hip hop to some current top 40 tunes for the 12yrs+. On this particular day the seniors where busy with their studies, so I focused on the younger children. Bonnie who run's BVH was a lovely ball of energy for the children to look up to and trust when it came to having a dance lesson with the new stranger - me.
A mixture of boys and girls between the ages of 4-14 years spent their afternoon learning the basic moves of Bhangra Bollywood, Bellydance, Salsa and Samba. The interesting observation that apart from learning dance and hearing music from different parts of the world - my English instructions was also a chance for the children to learn new words for the different moves and body parts. In particular the older boys thought is hilarious to mimick my instructions as they attempted to get their tounges around some of these difficult English words.
I must admit that at first I was a little worried as always that I just might not be able to break the ice with the children, but I think they could sense my silliness so I gained their trust and together we burnt the dance floor. All of the children dropped their walls and became beautiful smiling, giggling, happy children working together to work out how to do these new dance steps - salsa in partners worked a treat - although I havent quiet worked out how to crack the international childrens code of "boys/girls germs". Along the way I picked up a couple of new words in Indonesian for Right and Left (OK I admit I've forgotten already!).
In what was the hottest hour dancing on the grass outside with the help of my i pod blarring music from its speakers - I felt as 1 person I could make a difference to these children's lives.
I think this is something I have heard too many times as the "bleedy heart" that I am - people saying why bother and that they have come to the conclusion they cant make a difference - how wrong they are. I could list numerous books of women who for one reason or another their life path has taken them abroad just to give back and in the end they have started schools, hospitals, training centres, orphanages, women's shelters, income generation programs - all this created by the efforts of ONE. It should be compulsary that for the life you are given you must also give life to another - now I know some will argue that is why we pro-create but I am talking about giving life, love, knowledge and power to those who are in a worse of situation that you.
Well I hope someone's reading this realising you can make a difference and getting off your but to do so. If you are coming to Bali for a holiday why not take the entire family out to either of these orphanages - it will be a life lesson for your children and a reality check for all to be grateful for all that you have and those around you.
Rather than laze around the resort pool all day I decided to kick off my tour with what I love most - little kids! A visit to two orphanages that are based in Denpasar in Bali - Jodie O'Shea orphanage inconjunction with Bali Volunteer House and Seeds of Hope Children's Home provided me with a lot of little smiles and hope for the next generation of Balinese children.
I found over the last few days when you mention that you have visited an orphanage everyone seems to have pictures of doom and gloom. And yes I can understand that as it is sad that each one of these little one's cannot be with their families - but when you are there you realise these children are bonding with each other and are happy and grateful with their opportunity to be there.
Let me clear one thing up that I didnt realise prior to my visit to Cambodian orphanages in 2009 - they may have the name "orphanage" but it dosent actually mean that these children have no parents or family - 90% of these orphanages that the general public can visit are children who perhaps have at least 1 living parent, grandparent, aunt etc. It's just that their living situation at home is so poor that they would not have the luxury of an education, their own bed, 3 meals or the access to learning a second language like English. Orphanages such as these two in Denpasar take these children out of poor living conditions and give their future hope and a chance for survival rather than ending up in the child trafficking raquets, prostitution, no education and extreme poverty.
Formerly government run - Seeds of Hope Children's Home has just over 60 children whose parents can no longer afford to support their child so give them up in hope of a better future for their child. The idea of the program is that the children will study under the care and guidance of the home and return to their family with an education and a much better opportunity to help support their family. Upon arriving at this orphanage (which was very hard for my driver to find so be warned its best you have your driver speak to someone and keep their number with you for the drive) - I was greeted by half the children playing Waltzing Matilda on the Xylophone and some other bamboo wind instruments. Some of the other older girls were busy distributing water to the visitors like myself who had dropped in for the day from places such as France, Australian and England.
After their performance the children curiously came to mingle with their guests and I was lead around by two of the girls who wanted to show me the schools two pet monkies, their swings and play some basketball. A couple of ladies from the UK were volunteering for two weeks at the orphanage and said that they had found it very hard to volunteer anywhere in Bali - I'm guessing they found a lot of programs where you are expected to pay as volunteers - that's a whole new discussion and I will chat about that when I start my paid program in India.
Some of the children helped the staff prepare the hot coal fire for dinner which was to be fresh fish from the market that day. Some of the children told me they like to help prepare food and cook things like rice - which lead me to think there is a need/opportunity for cooking school just like good old home economics so that they children can leave when they are older know how to prepare basic meals according to their cultures traditions (actually why arent we all taught this back in Australia - I know men who cant boil an egg! :)
Next stop was at the Jodie O'Shea / Bali Volunteer House (BVH) orphanage - through BVH anyone around the world can come to Denpasar and stay in their purpose built accomodation providing that you have a loving personality and can prepare a program for the children to participate in each afternoon once they finish school 4-5pm for the juniors and 5-6pm for the 12yrs + teenagers.
As I already had accomodation it was agreed that I would drop in one afternoon and teach the juniors a one hour interactive world dance program, followed by hip hop to some current top 40 tunes for the 12yrs+. On this particular day the seniors where busy with their studies, so I focused on the younger children. Bonnie who run's BVH was a lovely ball of energy for the children to look up to and trust when it came to having a dance lesson with the new stranger - me.
A mixture of boys and girls between the ages of 4-14 years spent their afternoon learning the basic moves of Bhangra Bollywood, Bellydance, Salsa and Samba. The interesting observation that apart from learning dance and hearing music from different parts of the world - my English instructions was also a chance for the children to learn new words for the different moves and body parts. In particular the older boys thought is hilarious to mimick my instructions as they attempted to get their tounges around some of these difficult English words.
I must admit that at first I was a little worried as always that I just might not be able to break the ice with the children, but I think they could sense my silliness so I gained their trust and together we burnt the dance floor. All of the children dropped their walls and became beautiful smiling, giggling, happy children working together to work out how to do these new dance steps - salsa in partners worked a treat - although I havent quiet worked out how to crack the international childrens code of "boys/girls germs". Along the way I picked up a couple of new words in Indonesian for Right and Left (OK I admit I've forgotten already!).
In what was the hottest hour dancing on the grass outside with the help of my i pod blarring music from its speakers - I felt as 1 person I could make a difference to these children's lives.
I think this is something I have heard too many times as the "bleedy heart" that I am - people saying why bother and that they have come to the conclusion they cant make a difference - how wrong they are. I could list numerous books of women who for one reason or another their life path has taken them abroad just to give back and in the end they have started schools, hospitals, training centres, orphanages, women's shelters, income generation programs - all this created by the efforts of ONE. It should be compulsary that for the life you are given you must also give life to another - now I know some will argue that is why we pro-create but I am talking about giving life, love, knowledge and power to those who are in a worse of situation that you.
Well I hope someone's reading this realising you can make a difference and getting off your but to do so. If you are coming to Bali for a holiday why not take the entire family out to either of these orphanages - it will be a life lesson for your children and a reality check for all to be grateful for all that you have and those around you.
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